Sponge twists: how to get them and keep them
Sponge twists turn tightly curled hair into neat, defined coils using a simple tool. Here is how the look is made and how to keep it sharp between visits.
What sponge twists are
Sponge twists, sometimes called twist sponge coils, are made with a small hair sponge covered in holes. Worked over the hair in circular motions, the holes catch the curls and twist them into even coils across the head. The look suits Afro-textured hair because the natural curl pattern is what holds the twist.
What you need first
The main thing is a little length, usually about an inch, so the coils have something to form from. Slightly damp hair works better than bone dry, and a light moisturiser or curl cream helps the twists set and stops the hair feeling brittle. Clean hair also grips the sponge better than product-heavy hair.
How the look is created
On damp, moisturised hair, the sponge is pressed lightly and moved in small circles across the head. Consistent direction matters, because twisting the same way each time gives an even, uniform coil rather than a patchy finish. A barber will often line up the hairline and neaten the edges afterwards so the twists sit inside a clean shape.
Keeping them defined
Moisture is what keeps coils looking their best, so a little leave-in or curl cream each day stops them drying out and loosening. A satin durag or bonnet at night protects the pattern and reduces frizz. Try not to over-wash, as stripping the hair can make the twists harder to hold, and refresh the sponge work every few days as new growth comes through.
When to see a barber
A barber keeps the look sharp by lining up the edges, evening out the length and shaping the twists so they grow out tidily. If the coils have grown uneven or the hairline needs redefining, that is the point to book in rather than fight it at home.
Afro hair at Swarv Studio
Swarv Studio is an appointment-only, one-chair barbershop in Sheffield near Bramall Lane, run by Errol Jones. Over thirty years of cutting Afro, Asian and European hair means the shape, lineup and finish around a twist look are done with a careful eye. From the phone to the barber chair, no queues, no fuss. See the services and prices to book your visit.
Frequently asked questions
What length of hair do I need for sponge twists?
Around an inch of length is usually enough to start, though longer coils form more easily. If your hair is very short, give it a couple of weeks of growth first and the twists will take better.
How do I keep sponge twists neat overnight?
Wear a satin or silk durag or bonnet in bed. It holds the twists in place, cuts down on friction and frizz, and stops the coils flattening on one side while you sleep.
How often do I need to redo sponge twists?
Most people refresh them every few days as new growth comes through and the coils loosen. Keeping the hair moisturised makes each set last longer.
Does sponge twisting work on every hair type?
It works best on Afro-textured and tightly curled hair, because the curl pattern is what forms the coils. Looser hair types do not hold the twist in the same way.
Does Swarv Studio cut and shape Afro hair?
Yes. Errol Jones has more than thirty years of experience with Afro hair, including shaping, lining up and keeping a twist look tidy. Swarv Studio also cuts Asian and European hair.